I’ve been away from this blog, while toodling around the states. I’ve parked myself for the moment at a beach house near Point Pleasant, on the north New Jersey coast. Until the weather turned yesterday, it had been beautiful--sunny, the surf high, the water warm. I’m looking out the window at the water now.
Last week I spectated at the Kenny Tooker Long Board Classic, sponsored by Beach House Surf Shop, and I was inspired to get out on the waves the next day. Consequently I’ve been nursing, and complaining about to anyone who’ll listen, a surfing injury. Actually, it’s more a boogy-boarding injury. My Malibu correspondent, filmmaker and surf aficionado Steve Gaghan, suggests it’d be a better if I said, “I was pulling a floater high and inside at bondi when my back fin hit the back of a great white, i tumbled down the face, at least six feet aussie size meaning triple overhead anywhere else, went through the washing machine, fortunately my momentum carried me back over the shark nets and i was saved.”
The truth is I tripped on a flipper… here on this beach in New Jersey.
Meanwhile, more here...