Since House & Garden folded last year, The Main Point has been missing Jay McInerney's wine column. It was amateurism... by which we mean "doing it for love of the thing"... at its best. Accordingly, we've asked him what wine he drank last week did he particularly like, or even love?
That would be a 1997 Coche Dury Meursault Caillerets that I had a couple of days ago at Louis Quinze in Monaco. It had a nice grilled bread nose and a strong mineral crushed gravel element for a Meursault, and I always prefer rocks to fruit when it comes to white burgundy. It was a more of a Kate Moss Meursault than a Kate Winslett Meursault. Also we were drinking it with Ducasse and his wife in the kitchen of the restaurant, where he has a little dining table, so the context, as always, was part of the pleasure.
Since I mention context... I should mention the turbot roasted with scallions, lemon and capers which we were drinking it with.